Two Non-Governmental Organisations (NGOs) have filed a complaint against Chinese-owned fast-fashion group Shein’s lobbying practices with the French High Authority for Transparency in Public Life (HATVP).
The NGOs Friends of the Earth (FoE) and the France-based Multinationals Observatory referred to potential breaches of the obligations of transparency and sincerity in the firm’s reporting, companies linked to it and its service providers.
In their complaint files, seen by Brussels Signal, they argued on May 27 that Shein’s list of official activities “does not fall within the scope of interest representation, is detrimental to the public’s understanding of Shein’s activities with decision-makers”.
They highlighted that some of Shein’s declared lobbying activities were described in what they termed very vague and unclear terms, specifically what public decisions the company was trying to influence.
FoE and Multinationals Observatory also accused Shein of lobbying and interfering in the proposed French law aimed at reducing the environmental impact of the textile industry, known as the ‘fast fashion law’.
“The pressures exerted by this multinational, a major player in the fast-fashion industry, are surely not unrelated: The company has multiplied its communication and lobbying efforts to defend its production model and oppose the proposed law,” they said.
In France, the proposed law was delayed in the Senate multiple times and the NGOs claimed Shein was lobbying against that.
“The rise in Shein’s lobbying power coincides with delays and the weakening of the law. Their representatives have had several high-level meetings, including with the Élysée. There is an urgent need to shed light on the influence exerted all the way to the top of the state,” he said.
Contacted by Brussels Signal regarding these allegations, Shein had yet to respond at the time of writing.
In their complaint, the NGOs also demanded that the roles of former French interior minister Christophe Castaner, former secretary of state Nicole Guedj and Bernard Spitz, former director of the Movement of the Enterprises of France (MEDEF), the largest employer federation in France, be clarified concerning their relations with the Chinese company.
“Several former ministers, like Christophe Castaner, have created consulting firms after leaving government, allowing them to monetise their influence in power circles,” claimed Olivier Petitjean, co-founder of the Multinationals Observatory.
“The many unanswered questions about the exact nature of Castaner’s services for Shein highlight the shortcomings of the current regulatory framework. But the HATVP does have oversight authority,” he added.
Shein may have to pay penalties to the European Commission for alleged violations of three different regulations.
In Belgium, on May 26, the Economic Inspectorate of the FPS Economy called on Chinese fast-fashion companies to comply with European consumer law and cease their commercial practices, which were considered illegal.
In a press release, the FPS Economy stated that action followed an investigation co-ordinated by the European Consumer Protection Co-operation (CPC).
These included alleged false promotions, pressure on consumer s via wrongly indicating limited stocks, incorrect and incomplete information on the right of withdrawal and refund and false or misleading information on the durability of the product.
Shien, the Chinese global e-commerce platform specialising in fast fashion, could soon find itself paying more than just shipping costs to the European Union. https://t.co/to099vetfZ
— Brussels Signal (@brusselssignal) May 27, 2025
